Next we travel along the old via Cassia, the original, clearly visible and highly evocative Roman road that took our predecessors to Rome, though with a great deal more hardship - no showers, beer stops or vast pizzas for those pilgrims. I do my best to imagine their privations and sensations as we bole along, but have great difficulty.
Last year Viterbo was a black spot for us because we spent many hot kilometres getting lost round a military airport, and then had to skirt the centre via a number of frightening junctions and flyovers. This year everything is easy. We avoid the airport, we only see the flyover in the distance and discover that the ancient centre is really quite pleasant. And, guess what? It's party time again, this time in the form of a huge medieval pageant involving a sumptuous display of costumes and crowds of people quite simply enjoying themselves. Paul and I enjoy ourselves for as long as I can bear it, but then retire at some ridiculous time like 8.30 because I am even more tired than usual, though the day has not been exceptionally hard.
On our way here we passed through the 100 km mark - that is 100 km from Rome. This falls in Montefiascone, a small town that we failed to appreciate last year and the frenetic traffic even on a Sunday morning has done nothing to improve our view.